Polar Fleece vs Cotton Fleece: Which Fleece Fits Your Line?

Polar fleece vs cotton fleece is a choice between brushed polyester knit at 150–300 GSM that is light and quick drying, and cotton-rich sweatshirt fleece at 280–450 GSM that breathes and takes garment dye. Expect 1–3% shrinkage on polar and 3–6% on cotton, with MOQ depending on style and fabric.

"Fleece" means very different things to different buyers. An outdoor brand thinks of a fuzzy polyester zip jacket; a streetwear brand thinks of a heavyweight cotton hoodie. When briefing a factory, the difference matters because the two fabrics are made, decorated, dyed and cared for differently. This guide compares polar fleece and cotton fleece for apparel programs so you can choose the right one for each product.

What is the difference in polar fleece vs cotton fleece?

Polar fleece vs cotton fleece compares two different fabrics that share a name. Polar fleece is a 100% polyester knit brushed and sheared on both sides into a dense pile, usually 150–300 GSM. Cotton fleece is sweatshirt fabric: a cotton or cotton-rich knit with a smooth face and a brushed back, usually 280–450 GSM, used for hoodies and sweatpants.

How are the two fabrics made?

Polar fleece starts as a polyester knit. Both sides are brushed to raise the fibres and then sheared to an even pile, which creates the soft, lofty surface on the inside and outside. Anti-pill treatments are common, and many polar fleeces use recycled polyester.

Cotton fleece is knitted with a smooth face yarn and a back made of looped yarn. The back is brushed to create a soft pile, while the face stays smooth for printing. Blends include 100% cotton, CVC around 60/40 cotton/polyester and 80/20 cotton/polyester. Our hoodie fleece GSM guide explains the weights used in cotton fleece programs.

Choosing a fleece for your next program? Weavnora works mainly with cotton and cotton-rich sweatshirt fleece and can help you compare weights and finishes. See our fleece fabric page for the base styles and fabrics we work with, then request a quote with your style, fabric and quantities. MOQ depends on style and fabric, so we confirm it in your quote.

How do warmth and breathability compare?

Polar fleece is very warm for its weight because the lofty pile traps air, and it dries quickly because polyester absorbs little water. That makes it popular for outdoor layers. It breathes less well than cotton, so it can feel clammy indoors.

Cotton fleece is heavier for the same warmth but breathes better and feels more natural against the skin. It absorbs moisture and dries more slowly, which matters for sportswear but less for everyday hoodies and sweatpants.

How do they handle decoration and dyeing?

This is where the two fabrics differ most for brands:

• Screen printing works on both, but polyester can cause dye migration with some inks; low-bleed inks are needed on polar fleece.
• DTG works best on the smooth face of cotton fleece and poorly on the pile of polar fleece.
• Embroidery works on both; polar fleece needs a topping so stitches do not sink into the pile.
• Garment dye and vintage washes work on cotton fleece but not on polyester, which needs disperse dyes at high temperature.
• Sublimation works on polyester, but polar fleece's pile makes it less crisp than on smooth polyester.

If you plan washed or vintage looks, cotton fleece is the only practical option. Our garment dye specification for fleece hoodies explains how dye works on cotton.

Polar fleece vs cotton fleece: which option fits?

Compare the two fabrics on the criteria that matter for your products.

The trade-offs are technical performance versus natural feel and decoration options. Polar fleece is lighter, warmer and quicker drying, while cotton fleece looks and feels like classic sweatshirt fabric, breathes better and opens up dyes, washes and DTG.

How do pilling and durability compare?

Both fabrics can pill. Quality polar fleece with an anti-pill finish resists pilling well, while cheap polar fleece pills quickly. Cotton fleece pills mostly on the brushed inside and at friction points; combed yarns and moderate brushing help. Our article on fleece pilling grades explains how to set a measurable target.

How does cost compare between the two fleeces?

Fabric price per kilogram is only part of the story. Polar fleece is usually cheaper per kilogram and lighter, so a polar pullover can use less fabric by weight than a cotton fleece hoodie of similar warmth. Cotton fleece costs more per garment, especially at 380 GSM and above, and garment dyeing or washing adds further steps. On the other hand, cotton fleece hoodies and sweatpants generally sell at higher retail prices in streetwear and lifestyle channels, so the margin can still be stronger. Compare options on total cost per finished garment, including decoration, dyeing and shrinkage allowance, rather than on fabric price alone.

What about care and sustainability?

Polar fleece is easy to care for: it dries fast and shrinks very little, often 1–3%. It can shed microfibres during washing, which some customers care about. Cotton fleece shrinks more, often 3–6% unless pre-shrunk, and should be washed cool. Recycled polyester and organic or recycled cotton options exist for both, so sustainability depends on the specific fabric, not the fleece type.

Which should you choose?

• Choose polar fleece for outdoor layers, lightweight warm pullovers, vests and promotional blankets.
• Choose cotton fleece for hoodies, crewnecks, sweatpants and sets, especially if you want a premium hand feel, washed finishes or DTG prints.
• Consider a CVC cotton fleece if you want cotton feel with lower shrinkage and better shape retention.

Weavnora focuses on cotton and cotton-rich sweatshirt fleece for hoodies, sweatshirts and bottoms. If your program needs technical polar fleece outerwear, a specialist outdoor manufacturer is usually the better fit, and we are happy to point you in that direction.

What should you include in a fleece brief?

Whichever fleece you choose, specify the fibre and blend, weight in GSM, brushing or pile level, anti-pill requirements, shrinkage tolerance, colour references, decoration method and care instructions. Ask for a fabric swatch and a washed sample before you approve bulk, because both fleeces can change in feel and size after the first wash.

Polar fleece vs cotton fleece: typical specs and key numbers

These are typical industry estimate ranges for planning, not quotes; confirm actual figures with your supplier for your fabric, quantity and destination.

Key takeaways

• Polar fleece is brushed polyester; cotton fleece is sweatshirt fabric with a brushed back.
• Polar fleece is warmer per weight and dries faster; cotton fleece breathes better.
• Garment dye, vintage washes and DTG work on cotton fleece, not polar fleece.
• Both can pill; set a measurable pilling target in the brief.
• Use cotton fleece for hoodies and sweatpants, polar fleece for outdoor layers.

Request a polar fleece vs cotton fleece quote

Need help choosing the right fleece? Send your tech pack or reference images, fabric preference, colours and quantities through our quote request form. MOQ depends on style and fabric, so we confirm it in your quote together with sampling time, approval steps and an itemised price.